HYPERCUBE COREXY DRIVERS
HYPERCUBE COREXY UPDATE
HYPERCUBE COREXY DOWNLOAD

New 12864 Enclosure now has cutouts and when combined with the RPi3 adapter place and spacers will allow for an RPi3 to be tucked in behind the LCD. STL's with no prefix can fit any printer that uses 2020 type extrusions - Updated all STL files to the latest and greatest. STL's starting with HC300 fit the Hypercube 300 only c. STL's starting with HC fit the original Tech2C Hypercube and my Hypercube 300 b. All STL files indicate comparability of the file a. All STL files show the quantity necessary at the end of the file name 2. Also added a integrated bearing cap/bushing for those wanting to use a printed bushing instead of a LM8LUU bearing - Revised all 'Thing' names as follows 1. Added optional parts for 10mm Y Rods after the BOM file in the things list. Updated the Y rods mounts to hold 8mm rods. I tweaked how the bearing cap clamps to the joiner to allow a better grip on bearings for those using IGUS or printed solid bushings.

Updated the XY joiner and its bearing cap to make it stronger, lighter and look nicer. They are plenty strong and a LM8LUU bearings is literally 1/2 the weight of an LM10LUU bearing. Updated a few parts while hurricane Irma was wreaking havoc around me. If you have questions ask here or join the group and ask there. I am a regular on the Hypercube CoreXY 3D Printer Group ( ).

HYPERCUBE COREXY UPDATE

I will update this post shortly with links to the files and quantities for those.

HYPERCUBE COREXY DOWNLOAD

You will need to go to Tech2C's Hypercube Thingiverse page, download the print his X and Y motor mounts, belt idler bearing mounts, the XY carriage and all the hot end, fan and probe parts. I will update this shortly with how many to make of my STL's. Please see the thing files for an up to date BOM with descriptions and quantities of what you need. The print quality from the first print was outstanding and has gotten even better with basic tuning. It's a few mm more than 300mm in every axis so you can successfully print right to the limits. The Hyper cube 300 features a true 300mm^3 build volume. The printer can be built with top quality components for less than $600 and with budget conscious components for less the $500. My goal with this project was to make a low cost, high build volume 3D printer with print quality rivaling the best, most expensive consumer printers. I'll need an extra wire for the 5V going to the piezo sensor anyway.The Hypercube 300 is an extensive remix of Tech2C's Hypercube CoreXY 3D Printer.

It works, but I'm not super happy with it, so I've ordered some USB 3.1 breakout boards (one male, one female) and a 6ft usb3.0 extension cable with 22ga wire. It carries the heater block, thermistor, heatsink fan, parts cooling fan, and z endstop inductive sensor wiring.

To simplify the elecrical wiring to the printer head, I created a prototype breakout board and used cat6 24ga stranded cable for the wiring. The two on the right are TMC 2130s, they're controlling the x/y motors. I want to make sure this one is running before I mess with it. The two on the left are TMC 2208s, they'll go in my other printer eventually. The red is a bit of stripped wire jacket to protect against shorts. So I installed schotsky diodes between VIO and VM.

Since I leave my current 3D printer usb plugged into my server, that wasn't going to work for me.

HYPERCUBE COREXY DRIVERS

I read the TMC stepper drivers have an issue that they can self destruct when usb power is applied to the board, but no main power. I still have to finish the plate that covers the top of the printer electrical enclosure, should be able to get that cut, painted and installed today. I've ordered a Precision Piezo sensor and controller, and I'll replace the z sensor in a few weeks when it arrives. Couple minor snags, the z sensor I'm using detects only 2mm above aluminum, so with the pei sheet on the current heated bed it's really close to the print. I've got a 300mm x 300mm bed ordered, with cork and pei. Bed heats to 75C in about 3 minutes, to 110C in about 8. Finally have everything together enough to to some basic tests.